There’s a certain thrill in being invited to a formal event. But that excitement can turn into panic when the dress code reads: Black Tie or White Tie. These two terms sound similar, but in the world of men’s fashion, they’re miles apart. Whether you’re attending a wedding in the Cotswolds, a London gala, or a university ball in Oxford, knowing how to dress for each occasion isn’t just a matter of etiquette — it’s a matter of confidence.
If you’ve ever hesitated at the mention of “tuxedo” or wondered if you really need tails, this guide will clear things up — with styling cues drawn from premium UK menswear collections like SuitSupply’s Black Tie range.
What Is Black Tie?
Black tie is the most common of the two, and it’s often the dress code for formal evening weddings, balls, and charity dinners across the UK. Think of it as elevated evening wear, a clear step above a business suit but not quite as ceremonial as white tie.
The Black Tie Essentials:
Here’s what you’ll need to get it right:
- Dinner Jacket (Tuxedo Jacket): Choose a single-breasted, tailored tuxedo in black or deep midnight blue. A shawl collar or peak lapel in satin or grosgrain is traditional and adds contrast. Look to SuitSupply’s Lazio or Roma jackets for examples of modern, British-fitted silhouettes.
- Trousers: Matching wool trousers with a subtle satin stripe down each leg — always worn without belt loops. Tailoring is key here; the hem should sit right on the shoe.
- Dress Shirt: A crisp white tuxedo shirt with a pleated or bibbed front. A spread or wing collar is acceptable, though the former is more popular in the UK.
- Bow Tie: Classic black, self-tied is best. Silk or grosgrain complements the jacket lapels.
- Shoes: Polished black patent leather Oxfords are ideal. In Britain, wholecuts or plain-toe Derbys (polished to a mirror shine) are often seen as acceptable alternatives.
- Accessories (Optional but Smart): A black silk cummerbund or low-cut waistcoat, cufflinks, and a white pocket square. Add a watch with a slim black leather strap or none at all — smartwatches are best left at home.
When to Wear Black Tie in the UK
In the UK, black tie is still the gold standard for formal events after 6 pm. You’ll likely need it for:
- Winter weddings in formal venues like castles or stately homes
- Gala charity dinners or awards ceremonies in London
- Opera or ballet at venues like the Royal Opera House
- Black tie balls at universities such as Durham or Edinburgh
While some invitations may say “formal” or “evening dress,” if it’s a high-end venue, assume they mean black tie unless stated otherwise.
What About White Tie?
White tie is rare — but when it appears, it signals the highest level of formality. It’s the traditional dress code for royal banquets, some university events (notably at Oxford and Cambridge), and certain state occasions. There’s no room for interpretation here; white tie has a strict set of rules.
The White Tie Uniform:
Here’s what you’ll need — and none of it is optional:
- Tailcoat: A black wool tailcoat that is cut short at the front and long at the back. It should sit just above the trousers’ waistband and never buttoned closed. This is not a morning coat — it’s far more fitted and formal.
- Trousers: High-waisted black trousers with two satin stripes down each leg. Braces (suspenders) are required, as there are no belt loops.
- Shirt: A stiff-fronted white dress shirt with a detachable wing collar. It should feature a bib front and be worn with formal shirt studs.
- Waistcoat: A low-cut white piqué waistcoat, tailored to lie flat under the tailcoat. This is one of the most important elements of the white tie ensemble.
- Bow Tie: A white, hand-tied bow tie in cotton piqué — never pre-tied.
- Shoes: Patent leather court shoes or highly polished Oxfords. Black silk socks add a traditional touch.
- Optional Accessories: White gloves, a pocket watch, and (depending on the event) medals, sashes, or academic dress robes.
Where You’ll Encounter White Tie in Britain
White tie is mostly reserved for:
- Royal or state dinners
- Select university balls (e.g. the Oxford or Cambridge May Balls)
- Livery company banquets in the City of London
- Some elite Masonic or diplomatic functions
If an invitation simply says “white tie,” assume there’s no wiggle room. Get it tailored, or rent from a British formalwear specialist who understands the code.
Final Style Tips for UK Gents
- Tailoring matters. Even if you’re renting, make sure the fit flatters your body. Ill-fitting formalwear is a missed opportunity.
- Stick to tradition. Especially at older UK institutions, dress code expectations haven’t changed much. It’s always better to be slightly overdressed than the opposite.
- Plan ahead. White tie, in particular, may take time to source or alter. Don’t leave it to the last minute.
In Summary
Black tie and white tie aren’t just about wearing a suit — they’re about dressing to match the occasion’s tone. In Britain, where tradition and style often walk hand in hand, respecting the dress code shows respect for the host, the setting, and the moment itself.
Whether you’re heading to a wedding in Windsor or a university ball under candlelight, dressing the part ensures you look as good as the event deserves.
